Today we visited the Temple Mount, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Via Dolorosa, the Western Wall, and other areas of the Old City.
First, the Temple Mount which is the site of the temple of Solomon and the temple built by Herod, but today is the location of the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque, both sacred places to Muslims.
The Temple Mount is also sacred to Jews, but Muslims are in total control of the area at this time. Muslims even deny that the temple existed on this site and will allow no excavation by anyone to prove differently. The Muslims have done some excavation to shore up the Dome of the Rock, but all the rubble is taken to the dump rather than examined for antiquities. Israeli archeologists then go to the dump to examine the rubble.
Our guide commented that questions regarding the subject of holy sites in Jerusalem, a big issue between Jews and Muslims, are difficult to answer because “we’re dealing with faith and tradition, not logic and reason.” He likened it to “divorcing and having to share the same bedroom forever.”
The Dome of the Rock was built in 691 and inside is the rock where it is believed that Mohammed’s flying horse ascended into the sky following Mohammed’s flight from Medina to Jerusalem. It’s also believed to be the rock where Abraham lay Isaac for sacrifice.
Dome of the Rock.
Another view of Dome of the Rock taken from the Mount of Olives.
Writing from the Koran on the side of the Dome of the Rock. This is the oldest written portion of the Koran in existence.
Al-Aqsa mosque dome and minaret. This mosque is the third most holy shrine in Islam, after Mecca and Medina, both in Saudi Arabia.
Entrance to Al-Aqsa mosque.
Tom and Susan on the Temple Mount.
Small dome on the Temple Mount.
We had to leave the Temple Mount at 10:00 a.m. because it was the time for Muslim prayer and non-Muslims are not allowed on the mount for the rest of the day.
After we left the Temple Mount we explored the area around the walls.
This is the southern wall of the Temple Mount which was originally the main entrance. The steps leading up to the Mount have been partially restored. Photo was taken from the Mount of Olives to the east. The dome of Al-Aqsa mosque is visible on the Temple Mount.
The steps leading to the southern entrance were of uneven width for two purposes: to cause one to walk slowly and to keep one’s head down as a sign of reverence (and to see where one was going) as one approached the Temple.
One of the original doorways on the southern wall which has been blocked over. Part of the arch still exists. The perpendicular wall was added at a later date.
This is the southwest corner of the Mount where the shofar was blown calling people to the temple.
These are shops outside the western wall near the southwest corner. It’s believed this is where the money changers and the merchants selling sacrificial animals were located.
Susan in a mikva. Prior to entering the temple, Jews would ceremoniously cleanse themselves by entering a mikva bath. They would enter on one side and emerge on the other. Susan is emerging a cleansed woman.
Originally steps and an archway were connected to the Temple Mount and an entrance was where these windows are. The stones projecting from the wall is where the arch connected to the wall. It is called Robinson’s Arch after the archeologist who discovered it.
We spent the remainder of the morning walking part of the Via Dolorosa.
Street sign designating the Via Dolorosa.
This is Station V where Simon of Cyrene carried Jesus’ cross.
Station VI where Veronica wiped the face of Jesus.
Another photo from Station VI.
Station VIII where Jesus urged the women to weep not for him but for themselves and their children.
After the Via Dolorosa we stopped at a restaurant in the Christian Quarter for lunch.
Falafel (deep fried chickpea paste) and shawarma (like lamb barbeque) plus salads for lunch. Also lots of hummus, olives, and pita bread.
Coffee service.
A nice after lunch coffee.
Nearby we were reminded that Santa Claus comes to Jerusalem as well.
After lunch we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This church is built on the site where Catholic and Orthodox faiths believe Jesus was crucified and buried. This complex of shrines, tombs, relics, and churches is all contained under a single roof. There is even an Ethiopian monastery on the roof.
There are seven different branches or sects of the Catholic and Orthodox faiths which have fought over control of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre for centuries. Ironically, because the Christians are unable to get along, the keys to the building are in the possession of a Muslim family which goes each morning to unlock the doors.
This is the plaza and main entrance to the church.
Behind the red grillwork is a room where it is believed the scourging of Jesus took place. This is Station X on the Via Dolorosa.
One of the main chapels in the church was filled with ornate mosaics and lamps such as these.
Mosaics in the ceiling of chapel.
Mosaic tile on a building column.
This table is located over the claimed site of Jesus’ cross, and there is a hole in the floor opening to a stone on which the cross supposedly rested. Many people stood in line for an opportunity to crawl under the table and put their hand into the hole to touch the stone.
This is the stone slab where Jesus’ body was prepared for burial as believed by Catholics and Orthodox. The stone is coated with an oil which people claim has healing powers. Tourists were placing items they had purchased (rosaries, crosses, jewelry, etc.) on the stone for blessing. Some people had so much stuff (see the garbage bag) it looked like they were going to try and make a quick buck selling it.
There is also a section in the church which contains the claimed tomb of Jesus. The line for viewing this was way too long for us.
Candles burning outside the tomb area. People could light candles and pray in this area.
Chandelier in the Rotunda of the church.
Dome at top of Rotunda.
An olive oil lamp in an area of the church that burned and hasn’t been restored. The ball near the top of the chain is to keep rats from crawling down the chain and eating the olive oil.
All in all, the visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was depressing. The inability of the various Christians to get along is very discouraging, and things like crawling under a table to touch a stone and wiping oil from the slab on trinkets seemed too TV-evangelistic for me.
After visiting the church we set out for more exploring in the Old City.
Although it says hospice above the door, in Israel it means hostel, usually run by a religious order.
I like interesting doorways and here’s one with the Israelite spies carrying loads of grapes back from the Promised Land. This is the logo of the Israeli Tourism Bureau.
Another interesting door surrounded by mosaic tile.
Another door.
And another.
Even a bright pink one.
Because the streets in the Old City are so narrow, all merchandise is brought in by hand or by a cart like this. No delivery vehicles are allowed.
Laundry day in the Old City.
Street in the Muslim Quarter.
Susan with Western Wall and Temple Mount in background.
We then made our way to the portion of the Western Wall known as the Wailing Wall, the most sacred place of prayer for the Jewish people. This portion of the wall is believed to be at the base of where the original temple was located.
View of wall from an overlook (looking east, the trees beyond wall are on the Temple Mount).
Some members of our group at the wall.
Tom at wall. Men had to wear a head covering and baseball caps were deemed proper, so Davidson was well represented.
Prayers are stuffed into cracks in the wall. Each day the prayers which have fallen out are collected, plus at the end of each year the wall is cleaned of all prayers and together all the prayers are buried in a nearby Jewish cemetery.
Bar Mitzvah celebration at the wall. Thursday is Bar Mitzvah at the Wall and we witnessed many celebrations, including parades, musicians, and families sharing meals together.
Ultra Orthodox Jew praying at the wall.
Reading the Torah in an enclosed extension of the men’s section of the wall.
Ultra Orthodox Jews near the wall.
Women’s section of the wall. Smaller and more crowded.
After visiting the wall we returned to our hotel for rest and dinner. After dinner we were treated to a presentation about Israeli-Palestinian relations by NPR correspondent Linda Gradstein.
Linda Gradstein.
No comments:
Post a Comment